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Zenith’s original plan had been to make the watch an exclusive edition that would be available only to visitors to the Le Locle, Switzerland, manufacture. But given the current global situation, with many areas of the world still locked down, it’s being made available exclusively through Zenith’s new e-commerce platform until the Zenith manufacture re-opens.
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The luxury Italian fashion house rekindled its storied love affair with yellow gold at LVMH Watch Week, adding not only an 18K yellow gold Octo Finissimo to its core collection but also reviving its yellow gold BULGARI BULGARI in two different sizes as its timepiece celebrates its 50th birthday. view details
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So how can you tell if the chamfers on a watch movement are actually done by hand? This is the tough part – it can be really, really hard to tell the difference. We often assume that hand-finishing is ubiquitous across all production from a fine watchmaking brand, but is this really the case? If you want to know if your luxury watch is really hand-finished, top to bottom and stem to stern, think about the economics involved.
The Value Proposition: The Simple Charm Of Timex’s Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic 38mmIf you still think of Timex as an old-school brand, one of their recent offerings is ready to blow the cobwebs off your pre-conceived notions. As Logan explained just last month, the Giorgio Galli S2 Automatic 38mm was created by Timex’s longtime Milan-based creative director, Giorgio Galli, to set a new high standard within the company’s product families, and checks in at just $450.
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The ship was named after the town of Oakville, and it was commissioned on November 18, 1941. The town of Oakville hosted an enormous celebration to commemorate and honor the warship and its crew. Of course Lt. Alex C. Jones was in attendance as the ship’s first commanding officer. He delivered a powerful speech to the crowd. Livingston outlines the scene in his book: view details
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A 40mm case showcases a hand-guilloched dial made of ethical 18K white gold with a distinctive light blue honeycomb motif, complemented by a baguette-cut diamond at eight o’clock, symbolizing Bucherer’s founding year—1888. Each piece carries the prestigious “Poincon de Geneve” quality hallmark and a sapphire caseback revealing the intricately finished in-house movement.
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Apart from the limited nature, the other big change between the 300 Carbon LE and the 300 Carbon COSC is the dial, which is both no longer finished in bare carbon but also forgoes the U.S. Divers Aqua Lung logo. To my eyes, the carbon dial will always be very cool, but I won’t for a moment miss the logo. I understand why people like it, but over time, it has come to feel a bit like buying a new sports car and putting vintage-era racing stickers on it. view details
Over the past dozen or so years, Cartier has made a habit of releasing attention-grabbing skeletonized watches. It started with the Santos 100 in 2009, and this year Cartier is introducing the Santos-Dumont Skeleton in a trio of metals.
We almost made it a year between “glossy” or “gilt” dial GMT-Masters hitting the HODINKEE Shop – our last one being in the second drop of January (just 13 days into my tenure at HODINKEE, not that anyone else is paying attention). Being so new here at the ‘Dink, I yielded rather than fight for the right to write. From January 13 forward I vowed to give my thoughts on our next gilt GMT. Well, here we are.
The re-release of the Chronograph 1, and the 911 models it’s tied to, hint to enthusiasts that Porsche Design knows what the core audience wants. Porsche AG and Porsche Design are two totally separate companies, but to see them working together so closely bodes extremely well for the future of Porsche Design’s watch department. After all, it was the 911 that originally gave birth to the Chronograph 1. view details
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Brand: Fratello x Czapek Model: Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green LEDiameter: 40.5mmThickness: 11.3mmCase Material: Steel Dial Color: Viridian GreenIndexes: AppliedLume: YesWater Resistance: 120 metersStrap/Bracelet: Steel integrated bracelet and included rubber strap with butterfly clasp
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In either size, the case and bracelet are presented in Frosted Gold. According to AP, this is achieved through a process where “tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones, like ‘diamond dust.'” The Frosted Gold finish debuted in 2016 with the 40th Anniversary Audemars Piguet Ladies Royal Oak. view details
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While the existing Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date versions (those being in white or rose gold) retail for $40,100, each of the fifty platinum pieces being added to the Collection Excellence Platine will sell via VC boutiques for $67,000. With platinum forming everything from the case to the dial, and even the thread used for the strap, you kinda knew it was going to cost a pretty penny. That said, you get a very limited and lovely watch in return.
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I showed you ten of my Speedmasters (11 if you include the 145.012-67) and a bit of a background story for each of them. I hope you enjoyed it, and I might do another run on some of my other Speedmasters at some point. view details
Plum blossom, a lyrical symbol for over a thousand years, has chosen to open its mother-of-pearl petals in a bed of diamonds in the Cat’s Eye, the most feminine model of Girard-Perregaux’s watch collections. view details
No, when I was growing up in the 80’s, titanium was darn near like talking about uranium or something ultra exotic and it often invoked thoughts of the Cold War, Russian-built submarines or my all-time favorite plane: the SR-71. view details
As each is effectively a new version of the much-loved SBGW231, we know that they come in a just-right 37.3mm case, have no date window, and are powered by the Grand Seiko 9S64, the hand-wound version of the company’s standard-beat mechanical movement with center seconds. view details
The 42mm rose-gold iteration features a contrasting dark blue skeletal framework, which is also used in a new white-gold version with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.59 carats framing the open-worked movement. view details
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Zenith’s original plan had been to make the watch an exclusive edition that would be available only to visitors to the Le Locle, Switzerland, manufacture. But given the current global situation, with many areas of the world still locked down, it’s being made available exclusively through Zenith’s new e-commerce platform until the Zenith manufacture re-opens.
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The luxury Italian fashion house rekindled its storied love affair with yellow gold at LVMH Watch Week, adding not only an 18K yellow gold Octo Finissimo to its core collection but also reviving its yellow gold BULGARI BULGARI in two different sizes as its timepiece celebrates its 50th birthday.
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So how can you tell if the chamfers on a watch movement are actually done by hand? This is the tough part – it can be really, really hard to tell the difference. We often assume that hand-finishing is ubiquitous across all production from a fine watchmaking brand, but is this really the case? If you want to know if your luxury watch is really hand-finished, top to bottom and stem to stern, think about the economics involved.
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The Value Proposition: The Simple Charm Of Timex’s Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic 38mmIf you still think of Timex as an old-school brand, one of their recent offerings is ready to blow the cobwebs off your pre-conceived notions. As Logan explained just last month, the Giorgio Galli S2 Automatic 38mm was created by Timex’s longtime Milan-based creative director, Giorgio Galli, to set a new high standard within the company’s product families, and checks in at just $450.
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Brand: ZenithModel: Defy Skyline C.X EditionReference Number: 06.9300.3620/63.I001Diameter: 41mmThickness: 11.6mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: SilverIndexes: AppliedLume: SuperLuminovaWater Resistance: 100mStrap/Bracelet: Steel bracelet and additional rubber strap with deployant clasp
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A 40mm case showcases a hand-guilloched dial made of ethical 18K white gold with a distinctive light blue honeycomb motif, complemented by a baguette-cut diamond at eight o’clock, symbolizing Bucherer’s founding year—1888. Each piece carries the prestigious “Poincon de Geneve” quality hallmark and a sapphire caseback revealing the intricately finished in-house movement.
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Apart from the limited nature, the other big change between the 300 Carbon LE and the 300 Carbon COSC is the dial, which is both no longer finished in bare carbon but also forgoes the U.S. Divers Aqua Lung logo. To my eyes, the carbon dial will always be very cool, but I won’t for a moment miss the logo. I understand why people like it, but over time, it has come to feel a bit like buying a new sports car and putting vintage-era racing stickers on it.
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Over the past dozen or so years, Cartier has made a habit of releasing attention-grabbing skeletonized watches. It started with the Santos 100 in 2009, and this year Cartier is introducing the Santos-Dumont Skeleton in a trio of metals.
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We almost made it a year between “glossy” or “gilt” dial GMT-Masters hitting the HODINKEE Shop – our last one being in the second drop of January (just 13 days into my tenure at HODINKEE, not that anyone else is paying attention). Being so new here at the ‘Dink, I yielded rather than fight for the right to write. From January 13 forward I vowed to give my thoughts on our next gilt GMT. Well, here we are.
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The re-release of the Chronograph 1, and the 911 models it’s tied to, hint to enthusiasts that Porsche Design knows what the core audience wants. Porsche AG and Porsche Design are two totally separate companies, but to see them working together so closely bodes extremely well for the future of Porsche Design’s watch department. After all, it was the 911 that originally gave birth to the Chronograph 1.
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Brand: Fratello x Czapek Model: Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green LEDiameter: 40.5mmThickness: 11.3mmCase Material: Steel Dial Color: Viridian GreenIndexes: AppliedLume: YesWater Resistance: 120 metersStrap/Bracelet: Steel integrated bracelet and included rubber strap with butterfly clasp
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In either size, the case and bracelet are presented in Frosted Gold. According to AP, this is achieved through a process where “tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones, like ‘diamond dust.'” The Frosted Gold finish debuted in 2016 with the 40th Anniversary Audemars Piguet Ladies Royal Oak.
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While the existing Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date versions (those being in white or rose gold) retail for $40,100, each of the fifty platinum pieces being added to the Collection Excellence Platine will sell via VC boutiques for $67,000. With platinum forming everything from the case to the dial, and even the thread used for the strap, you kinda knew it was going to cost a pretty penny. That said, you get a very limited and lovely watch in return.
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I showed you ten of my Speedmasters (11 if you include the 145.012-67) and a bit of a background story for each of them. I hope you enjoyed it, and I might do another run on some of my other Speedmasters at some point.
view details
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Plum blossom, a lyrical symbol for over a thousand years, has chosen to open its mother-of-pearl petals in a bed of diamonds in the Cat’s Eye, the most feminine model of Girard-Perregaux’s watch collections.
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As each is effectively a new version of the much-loved SBGW231, we know that they come in a just-right 37.3mm case, have no date window, and are powered by the Grand Seiko 9S64, the hand-wound version of the company’s standard-beat mechanical movement with center seconds.
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The 42mm rose-gold iteration features a contrasting dark blue skeletal framework, which is also used in a new white-gold version with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.59 carats framing the open-worked movement.
view details